New Drum Build Advice

tbrtt1

New member
I just picked up a brand new drum for the good folks at Sooner Containers here in Conroe, TX about 10 miles from house. How convenient!

It is unlined and brand new, UN and DOT rated. I would like to solicit advice on the exterior and the burn in.

*Should I strip the paint that is on it or drill holes, do a burn in then strip and repaint?
*Do I need a raging fire for the burn in since it is a new and unlined drum? Any chance I could wipe it well and season it?

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tbrtt1

New member
I am going to have the drum sandblasted. If I sandblast it in and out do I still need to do a burn in?


BTW-Got a Pig Poppa All-In kit coming. I am stoked. Sterling, if your kits are anywhere as good as your guitars this thing will be awesome.
 

swamprb

New member
I am going to have the drum sandblasted. If I sandblast it in and out do I still need to do a burn in?

NO

You will be saving a lot of time having it sandblasted. If it is indeed an unlined drum then it will not need to blasted inside (unless there is a clear rust inhibitor).

It will make your kit build a lot easier having to mark and drill on bare metal.
 

tbrtt1

New member
NO

You will be saving a lot of time having it sandblasted. If it is indeed an unlined drum then it will not need to blasted inside (unless there is a clear rust inhibitor).

It will make your kit build a lot easier having to mark and drill on bare metal.

Thanks. Yeah, that is what I am seeing in my "research" so far. It is a clean, unused, unlined, UN food grade drum. I think I will have it blasted on the outside after I get the BPS Kit in and drill the holes.

Still deciding on whether to powder coat or do high temp paint. Got some time to think about it.
 

Salmonsmoker

New member
Still deciding on whether to powder coat or do high temp paint. Got some time to think about it.[/QUOTE]

Some of the high temp. paints that you get, like at your local auto parts store are not that durable, and you might find that you need to re-do the barrel in a year. My barrels (2) are outside, but under an overhang, and the one I did with auto parts store paint had rust coming through the paint before the year was out. I've bought high temp. engine paint from www.eastwood.com and that seems to be holding up well. If you don't want to go through all of the fuss, powder coating might be your preferred route.
 

tbrtt1

New member
Thanks Salmonsmoker. I will keep that in mind. I am leaning towards the powder coat. This is not intended to be a price sensitive project. Its a custom for me project. So I will look into a few options. I can get colored powder coating that is high heat rated, or so it seems.
 

swamprb

New member
The deal on the powder coating is most is usually only heat rated to whatever the oven temp that bakes it at.
The place I've had parts form my clone builds was totally upfront with me on that and assured me that it was good to 450*, but anything higher it would discolor and wanted to be sure that I understood that in advance, since they had dealt with some stove and bbq jobs that had customers unhappy when they overheated.
They referred me to an outfit that does high temp marine coatings up to 1200* but the cost was triple what the 450* coating would be.

Powder coat still chips and scratches like paint, so its rattle can for me.
 

tbrtt1

New member
After some research and pricing, it will be rattle can paint. Just not worth it to pay for the PC and then have it chip or peel. Some places do ceramic with is what is on the Webers and others, but price prohibitive. This project is not intended to be a price conscience build, but I was getting into the $400 range for ceramic coating quotes.
 

Noneya691981

New member
If you can find some to soda blast the barrel it will be better. It is less abrasive because sand or media blasting can cause pits in the metal and the left over from the baking soda is a natural rust inhibitor. I did this with mine and have zero rust on my barrel.


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