Howdy fellas

BigDummy

New member
Just popped in to say hello, built my first UDS this summer, love it. She likes to run at about 230 most of the time which is perfect for me. It has an access door, elevated ball valve, triple nipples with caps, two racks internally tabbed, basket wtih heat deflector, Weber lid, legs and is powdercoated.

vandalgrill.jpg
 

sparky

New member
thats really nice. love your drum. you could make it better by putting a 49ers sticker on it. lol....
 

BigDummy

New member
Thanks Cowgirl, now I have to figure out what controller I want on it. As much as I know it runs well, I have a Stoker for my Kamado Joe but love the low profile of the Guru. Thinking of a 90 degree elbow on the ball valve and put a Guru on it for the overnight cooks.
 

jimsbarbecue

Moderator
Staff member
I am using a Stoker on mine,The guru would work just as well. It is nice to know you can leave it and not worry, which is why I use the Stoker. With just the stoker allowing air it will run as hot as 300 if needed with a 10 cfm fan. I can access the stoker remotely which helps if I am called out.
 

BigDummy

New member
Hey Jim, I have a stoker I run my ceramics on and was wondering about the connection. Since my ball valve is higher up and the post is welded to the barrel on my UDS, I don't get massive air draw to the bottom of the barrel, not that big of an issue. My question is, I have the Stoker but love the lower profile of the Guru, maybe I am just a gadget head but it seems the Guru has a better connection option with regard to connecting to a ball valve. I guess I need to just up and get a 10cfm fan and the Guru adapter and try it out. Have you tried this without having to do the permanent install of the Stoker adapter?
 

jimsbarbecue

Moderator
Staff member
I use the Guru threaded adapter on my drum. Stoker has a adapter now that fits the guru mounts. The Stoker fan needs to sit the way it is designed because of a trap door that opens and closes when the fan runs or not . The guru can be mounted in any direction.

Now for A LITTLE airflow talk. everytime you add a fitting or long piece of pipe you reduce airflow. which means your drum should work better when removing one cap versus having the air valve full open.Something to try.
When you use a forced air device and have it blowing air in a 90 or down a 2 foot piece of pipe it will lose some power. the big issue with the 90 is the short side radius is to small and cause the air to create a turbulence on the long side radius near the end of the 90. A sweep 90 which has about 3 times the short side radius helps a lot but usually only found in copper.

It shows how well the vent system in the BPS kit is made as it has no built it restriction.
 

BigDummy

New member
That's good to know. My UDS is the first one I have designed. As you can see in the pic, I am limited by what I have finished. As for airflow I am looking to see what I need to consider first, if anything. Since I have a Stoker already, might as well make the purchases to add a 10 cfm fan and the Guru adapter to see how she works. I have a 90 degree elbow on the bottom, a 36" vertical pipe and 1" ball valve. The pipe is welded to the sidewall so there is no taking it out, I did this for durability over time, and ease of maneuvering it when needing to take it with me....don't want broken parts when going mobile.
 
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