Seasoning/Curing Drum Questions

frjeff

New member
I've read everything I could on the proper seasoning of my new UDS interior, but have a confusement:

My exterior paint directions say to cure for one hour @ 200 degrees, yet the posts I've read indicate to let it get really hot (300+) for the interior oil/smoke seasoning for hours and hours.

What should I do? Keep it @ 200 for the first hour or so and then kick it up, or will the inside season if I do a long 200 - 225 degree burn?

The exterior engine enamel is rated to 500 degrees+, so perhaps I could just cure hotter.

I'm probably being too worried about this, but could use som verteran input.
 

jimsbarbecue

Moderator
Staff member
Cure the paint at one hour at 200. Only light a couple of charcoals or use a weber starter cube. Only one vent hole on the bottom open to keep the temps from overshooting. Top vent half open. Run for 45 minutes then close all the vents to snuff out the fire . The drum should be cool to touch in 60-90 minutes. The heating up and cooling down is what cures the paint properly. If you heat it up to 200 then go to high heat is NOT the same. Once that is done relight and let it run at the hotter 325-350 temps. If your burning bad stuff off do that for a few hours then let cool down . Oil up the inside with Pam , lard, peanut oil etc and repeat the high heat process. That will sort of seal the drum and keep rust from forming if it isn't a stainless drum. At this stage with the drum still hot cook some food like bacon in there and you should be down. Consider the bacon a sacrifice to the drum. It should be fine just don't plan on it being lunch. The add grease sometimes makes the fire smoke a lot. You did such a nice job on the drum . It is not a UDS just a DS!
 

frjeff

New member
Cure the paint at one hour at 200. Only light a couple of charcoals or use a weber starter cube. Only one vent hole on the bottom open to keep the temps from overshooting. Top vent half open. Run for 45 minutes then close all the vents to snuff out the fire . The drum should be cool to touch in 60-90 minutes. The heating up and cooling down is what cures the paint properly. If you heat it up to 200 then go to high heat is NOT the same. Once that is done relight and let it run at the hotter 325-350 temps. If your burning bad stuff off do that for a few hours then let cool down . Oil up the inside with Pam , lard, peanut oil etc and repeat the high heat process. That will sort of seal the drum and keep rust from forming if it isn't a stainless drum. At this stage with the drum still hot cook some food like bacon in there and you should be down. Consider the bacon a sacrifice to the drum. It should be fine just don't plan on it being lunch. The add grease sometimes makes the fire smoke a lot. You did such a nice job on the drum . It is not a UDS just a DS!

Thanks jimsbarbecue.

While I've got your attention, I'm running a significant difference between the kit temp gauge and my digital. I have the digital in the grill center and have a 45+ degree difference. I know there will be some difference, but this seems excessive.
Is the kit thermometer able to be calibrated and if so, how does one do that?
 

MrAdam

New member
Jeff didn't you already do a high temp burn to get the paint off the outside? You also sandblasted the inside. If you did, then you don't need to worry, just do your cure at 200 with smoke and you can season it at the same time.
 

MrAdam

New member
Thanks jimsbarbecue.

While I've got your attention, I'm running a significant difference between the kit temp gauge and my digital. I have the digital in the grill center and have a 45+ degree difference. I know there will be some difference, but this seems excessive.
Is the kit thermometer able to be calibrated and if so, how does one do that?

The thermometer reads the temperature on the edge of the drum, and it has been noted there is usually a 30-50 degree difference between the edge and the center. You can check the accuracy of your thermometer with boiling water. When I checked mine it was bang on.
 

frjeff

New member
The thermometer reads the temperature on the edge of the drum, and it has been noted there is usually a 30-50 degree difference between the edge and the center. You can check the accuracy of your thermometer with boiling water. When I checked mine it was bang on.

Thanks, as usual.
 

jimsbarbecue

Moderator
Staff member
Drums do run hot in the center. I have been working on a heat deflector that uses the lodge insert that Big Poppa found and has used. I have been happy with it. I am dropping off one to Big Poppa and Scooter this weekend at "King of the Smokers" so they can try it and give their input.
 

frjeff

New member
Drums do run hot in the center. I have been working on a heat deflector that uses the lodge insert that Big Poppa found and has used. I have been happy with it. I am dropping off one to Big Poppa and Scooter this weekend at "King of the Smokers" so they can try it and give their input.

What does the lodge insert look like and is this something one could self construct or will BP have one available.....?
 

jimsbarbecue

Moderator
Staff member
Deflector

What I have been testing is made with available parts and no welding required. Comes apart for cleaning. Just one bolt and nut.
This is a early picture. What it in use now has a few more changes, different baffle disc sizes, a smoke ring for adding pellets for more smoke flavor and acts as a spacer between the baffle and lodge insert. I have used it on two drums and when Big Poppa and Scooter give in a run we will know if it is ready. Both Big Poppa and Scooter have used and made deflectors (the Lodge insert was a Big Poppa idea). Which helps when they try this one to see if it fits the bill. Trust me when I tell you I have burned a lot of Kingsford getting this far and now don't worry where I put food on our Big Poppa Smokers Drum because of even temps. I think in a week we should have some information.

DSC02423-L.jpg
 

frjeff

New member
What I have been testing is made with available parts and no welding required. Comes apart for cleaning. Just one bolt and nut.
This is a early picture. What it in use now has a few more changes, different baffle disc sizes, a smoke ring for adding pellets for more smoke flavor and acts as a spacer between the baffle and lodge insert. I have used it on two drums and when Big Poppa and Scooter give in a run we will know if it is ready. Both Big Poppa and Scooter have used and made deflectors (the Lodge insert was a Big Poppa idea). Which helps when they try this one to see if it fits the bill. Trust me when I tell you I have burned a lot of Kingsford getting this far and now don't worry where I put food on our Big Poppa Smokers Drum because of even temps. I think in a week we should have some information.

DSC02423-L.jpg

Thanks a bunch. I'm too new at this to know for certain. But, it sure appears that with as much heat differential as I have in my drum, a diffuser/deflector of some sort would be a welcome addition. Would love to have nearly even temps all over my cooking surface.

I'll anxiously await their reply.

Thanks for all of your efforts and all the money spent on coal. :)
 

backbay2

New member
There is about a 40 degree temp difference on the center of my grate to the outside edge, once you cook on it a few times you will understand the cooking effect a little better.. I too am thinking of installing a diffuser on my drum to help with that. But I run three temp gauges with a grill gauge also.. Back to the original question... I followed manufacturer directions on curing the paint and mine did not cure correctly. But, after the second cook it cured completely. So don't give up if it is not right the first time.

Porkbutt004.jpg


Notice all the temp gauges..... Trying to get it right ..
 
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